All the parts I used were purchased from US Carburetion They are great to work with and ready with answers if you really get stuck.
My knowledge base for this conversion was This Link on RV.net. It would be wise to study this link as the information pertains to all propane conversions. The information I will be giving is specific to the EU2000i and should be used to supplement the RV.net information.
OK let's get started. First off I removed all the covers on the unit but found it's not required. Don't waste the time. I was going to put the low pressure regulator in the space occupied by the fuel tank but as you will see in the first 2 pics I rejected that idea, mounted it externally, and retained the fuel tank. Doing it this way makes it easy to use the primer on the low pressure regulator and adjust the fuel block. With the purchase of a new carb' the unit can easily be returned to stock.
This pic shows the completed installation. Note the angle of the tube coming out the bottom of the "carb". More later.
I purchased and cut a piece of 1/4" aluminum diamond plate, 12" square. All cuts were done on my table saw using a cheap cross cut blade. I did the finishing with a band saw & spindle sander. I removed the feet on the inverter & drilled holes in the plate to match the pattern on the inverter. I needed longer bolts to reattach everything. I purchased them at Home Depot in their specialty fastener section. Mounting it this way gives me access to the primer on the back of the regulator as well as the fuel block on the top. I have been considering drilling a hole, in the plate, to fasten a cable lock through for security.
I'm not going into the details of modifying the carb' because it's well covered in the RV.net thread noted at the top of the page. What I will try to do is cover the unique install problems encountered.
The major problem encountered was the lack of space in the cabinet and around the carb.
This is the new tube installed in the drilled carb. Where it extends from the carb it's quite delicate. The kit came with a right angle nipple. When I reinstalled the carb the nipple contacted the engine and while installing the mounting nuts I snapped the tube.
You can see the contact point in this picture. Sorry it's a little blurry. I contacted US Carburator and they sent me a 45 deg nipple.
I ground the shoulders off of both sides of the 45 deg nipple. This gave me enough room to install the carb without contacting the engine. I had to add a female to female sleeve in order to make all the connections.
This is the modified nipple installed. I repaired the tube using generous amounts of JB weld. I would recommend reinforcing the tube with JB weld because of it's delicate nature. Please read on before using any JB Weld. The nipple has to first be properly positioned.
Note the angle for the modified nipple. It has to be turned as much as possible, towards the front of the inverter, in order to reinstall the inverter access door and to get the supply tube installed. Do a trial & error until satisfied everything will fit. Only then add JB Weld, if desired.
The propane supply tube is long enough to feed through the front of the inverter and out a hole drilled on the opposite side. US Carburetor supplies a grommet to complete the installation. I found the best way to identify the hole location is by shining a strong flashlight through the housing. You can easily locate where there is no obstructions.
The last thing to be done is install a hour meter\tac. Again supplied by US carburetors.
The whole installation took 2 afternoons. On initial start I could not get a smooth idle. I disassembled everything and found I had not sealed all the possible sources of vacuum leaks. When I got them all sealed I reassembled and with some fine tuning of the fuel block got everything running great. I have not used it a lot but have run it under load a couple of time without problems. I do find it's a bit quieter (subjective) and the exhaust is not as noticeable.
Hope this helps with installations.
No comments:
Post a Comment